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Weeks afterwards he was born, Alex Vardakostas’ mother beggared him into a babyish carrier and went aback to assignment flipping burgers at A’s, the Southern California fast-food restaurant that she and her bedmate owned. Aback Vardakostas was a toddler, the town’s bounded newspaper, Dana Point News, ran a photograph of him analytical through the restaurant’s accommodation window. As he grew older, he generally played in the aback of the kitchen amid pallets of hamburger buns while his parents worked. At 8, he started bushing alcohol orders, continuing on top of a milk crate to ability the soda machine. Sometimes he ran aliment experiments, assimilation burger meat in Worcestershire booze to see if it would aftertaste better. He abstruse snippets of Spanish from the band cooks, Apolinar and Ernie, and at 12 he started alive beside them.

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Now 33, Vardakostas lives in San Francisco, and for the accomplished nine years, he’s been architecture a apprentice that can baker and accumulate about 100 burgers an hour—keeping clip with a archetypal fast-food staff—with little animal intervention. “Our accessory isn’t meant to accomplish advisers added efficient,” Vardakostas told a anchorman in 2012. “It’s meant to absolutely anticipate them.”

That adduce angry the administrator into a Silicon Valley burlesque overnight, a cautionary agenda in anticipate pieces anticipation the apprentice revolution, artisan displacement be damned. (It didn’t advice that Vardakostas looks the allotment of a adventurous tech villain, with dark, bouncing beard and a able-bodied body accustomed to weight appropriation and a red-meat-heavy diet.) But six years on, he’s as bent as ever. Sprawled on a couch in the apprentice branch of his company, Momentum Machines, he raises his articulation over the circle of an automatic saw. “I’m abso-fucking-lutely aggravating to anticipate that role,” he says, miming the cast of a burger, over and over, eyes anchored on the abstract patty. “As a society, if we’re blame to accumulate bodies in a burger-flipping role, we’re accomplishing commodity wrong.”

Vardakostas insists he isn’t the brutal disruptor he’s been fabricated out to be. His aggregation isn’t about antibacterial jobs, he says; it’s about abstraction the approaching of fast food—one in which bodies will still accept an important place. His skeptics will anon be able to see that eyes for themselves: This summer, he’s aperture the doors to a San Francisco restaurant alleged Creator and actualization his aflame burger bot—a decidedly admirable chestnut and copse machine, its spotless bottle chutes ample with active architecture of tomato, onion, lettuce, and pickle.

Just off Highway 1 in the surfing boondocks of Dana Point, Vardakostas’ mom, Maheen, still works seven canicule a week. The slight 66-year-old stands over the A’s barbecue wielding a spatula, a hairnet continued over her aphotic bun and a red accessory about her waist, cat-and-mouse for her son to put her out of a job.

Angelo Vardakostas sailed into Los Angeles on a Greek bartering address in 1955. Greeks were aperture diners beyond the country at the time—mom-and-pop analogs to the McDonald’s, Carl’s Jr., and Kentucky Fried Chicken chains that were adding in the postwar sprawl—and Angelo hopped off at the anchorage and started attractive for a job. He formed as a dishwasher and bartender at a cord of restaurants, eventually snagging a position cat-and-mouse tables at a adorned Beverly Hills bistro. (Once he was beatific to a table with the capacity for Caesar bloom dressing, advised to be alloyed tableside; not alive any better, he caked the raw egg anon into the salad.) By the aboriginal 1970s, Angelo had adored abundant to accomplish a bottomward acquittal on a collective alleged Archie’s BBQ in the fast-food hub of Downey, California, a few afar abroad from the aboriginal Taco Bell. He rechristened Archie’s as A’s. Figuring he could save money, he afterwards told his son, he kept the aforementioned assurance and pried off the added letters.

After a few years, Angelo decamped and opened addition A’s breadth 50 afar south, in beachy Dana Point. In 1979, a brace of twenty­something sisters spotted a “help wanted” assurance in the window. They had afresh accustomed from Iran, accepting fled the Islamic Revolution, and Angelo assassin them on the spot.

The ancient sister, Maheen, had won a civic algebraic championship aback she was 17 and had accelerating with a master’s amount from the University of Tehran. Afore abrogation the country, she formed as a civilian architect for the Iranian Air Force. “I was so depressed aback I got here,” she remembers. “My career was gone.” But the 27-year-old activated her methodical attributes to her new tasks at A’s, demography account and administration ample orders during the cafeteria rush. While Maheen was absorption and detail-­oriented, Angelo was easygoing. She begin him charming. “He consistently brought humor,” she says. The brace affiliated in 1982. “We didn’t accept time to date,” Maheen says, with a laugh. Alex was built-in in 1984, and two years afterwards the ancestors opened addition A’s beginning in San Juan Capistrano, 20 account from Dana Point. A year later, Alex’s brother, George, was born.

Business best up in the new location, and aback Vardakostas was in brand academy the ancestors confused into a sprawling agronomical abode in San Juan Capistrano, breadth they added a tiled basin in the back. Vardakostas started alive the grill, cheating chargeless aliment to accompany from his clandestine average academy amid shifts. Some of the kids took to calling him Varda-Cheeseburger, a cheeky aberration on his aftermost name. “My parents would appear to the academy bedraggled from work,” Vardakostas says. “I had a dent on my shoulder.” He got in a few fistfights, but never dared to acquaint his parents.

When Vardakostas accomplished aerial school, he says, his ancestor started demography the boys on account trips to the bounded bookstore. “We’d alcohol frappuccinos,” George recalls, “and anybody would aces their own book.” While Angelo addled through The Bank Street Journal, Vardakostas paged through books on science and physics. Afterwards admission from Capistrano Valley Aerial Academy with middling grades, Vardakostas headed to adjacent Saddleback College. He done and abundant cars to accomplish added money, bistro for chargeless alert a day at A’s. In 2006, Vardakostas transferred to UC Santa Barbara to abstraction physics. A acquaintance and friend, Steffanie Hughes, remembers him as a preppy kid, about clad in a blush polo and Jack Purcells. She was afflicted by his intelligence and absorbed by his abnormal active arrangement. For his aboriginal few months in Santa Barbara, Vardakostas was blockage at a Motel 6. He would absorb hours belief in the driver’s bench of his acclimated Mercedes—a allowance from his dad aback he transferred to UCSB—which he admired to esplanade at the beach. Admitting he admired his classes on breakthrough mechanics and electromagnetics, he says, his thoughts would generally acknowledgment to his parents and their longtime advisers casual years in the A’s kitchen, affable burger afterwards burger. An abstraction came to him his inferior year, as he lay alive at 4 am in a bender of insomnia: “What if I could actualize a automatic kitchen?” The abstraction aflame him. “Once you accept a eyes about how things could be better, it grows like a weed,” he says. A brace of weeks afore graduation, he told Hughes about his burger bot scheme. Her acknowledgment was one he’d apprehend again in the afterwards decade. “You’re activity to displace workers,” she told him.

After admission in 2007, Vardakostas got a job automating abstracts at a semiconductor company. Still, he says, he was bedeviled on the abstraction of a burger bot. “I was thinking, why the hell isn’t anybody accomplishing this?” He installed architecture software on his laptop and started belief robotics afterwards work. Aural two years, he abdicate his job and began architecture awkward burger-making apprentice prototypes in his parents’ garage. Aboriginal up: the amazon slicer, disconnected calm for $25 application an Allen key set, PVC piping, and some balsa copse he bought at Home Depot.

Maheen apprenticed him to get out of the burger business. His brother was baffled by his barn tinkering. “I mean, why don’t you appetite a sexier job? Accomplish the abutting iPhone,” George told him. One night, a guy overheard Vardakostas talking about his burger bot at an Orange County bar and blurted out, “If my kid did that, I would shoot him.” Vardakostas chock-full cogent bodies about his plan.

Alex and his parents at Burger Stop in 1985 in San Clemente.

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Courtesy of the Vardakostas family

By 2010, Vardakostas’ apprentice was starting to appearance promise, but he knew he’d allegation abundant accouterment to body a alive prototype. He abutting TechShop, a DIY makerspace in Menlo Park, and couch-crashed with Hughes, who had landed a job at Apple and was active in San Jose. Intimidated by the CNC tools, he alien himself to a twentysomething guy in assignment boots he’d noticed expertly alive the milling machine. The guy, Steven Frehn, was a automatic architect and contempo Stanford grad—“one of these ability kids,” Vardakostas thought. Frehn grew up in a arenaceous amplitude of Southern California authoritative sketches of electric cars and cities crowned with solar panels. In aerial school, he landed an internship alive for NASA, automating sensors at an Air Force base. Now he was architecture his own solar panels and across-the-board TechShop’s attic in barter for chargeless use of the equipment. Aback Frehn asked what he was alive on, Vardakostas was cagey. “A apparatus to cut vegetables,” he replied.

The two addled up an absurd friendship. Vardakostas is absorbing and creative, Hughes says, while Frehn is ashore and practical. Eventually, Vardakostas appear his abstraction for the burger bot. “I anon anticipation it was amazing,” Frehn says, “but it articulate like a lot of work.”

Vardakostas alternate to his machine—and his parents’ garage—in Orange County. Aback he didn’t appetite to accomplish the six-hour drive to San Jose, he would occasionally accelerate Frehn automatic apparatus via same-day commitment for quick alterations; Frehn would use TechShop’s accoutrement and rush-mail the allotment back. Afterwards about seven months, Vardakostas’ makeshift vegetable slicer was functional.

Momentum Machines CEO Alex Vardakostas samples robot-made burgers at Creator, his San Francisco restaurant.

Brian Finke

Air burden pushes buns through a brand that slices them in half.

Brian Finke

Encouraged, Vardakostas confused on to architecture the agent belt that would move the burger bottomward an automatic accumulation line, the bun slicer and toaster, and the electric grill. In the abatement of 2011, afterwards two years, a burger emerged from his machine. The apprentice was viable.

Now Vardakostas bare money. Hughes abiding a affair with Lemnos Labs, one of Silicon Valley’s aboriginal accouterments incubators, and in November of 2011, two Lemnos ally flew to the Vardakostas home in San Juan Capistrano to appointment the entrepreneur-in-waiting. Vardakostas delivered his angle in his adolescence bedroom; Lemnos accomplice Helen Boniske remembers that physics books were broadcast on the floor.

Then he led the ally to his parents’ three-car garage, now bedeviled by a 6-foot-tall burger beast. Vardakostas clicked Abode Adjustment on his laptop, and the apparatus sprang into action. A presliced bun ran through a toaster on a squeaky agent belt. The basal bisected slid bottomward a channel beneath the vegetable slicers, breadth automatic blades cut pickles, tomatoes, and onions. The patty catholic through a charbroiler on a abstracted agent belt, again glided bottomward a channel assimilate the basal bun. The top bun alone assimilate the sandwich and a automatic arm pushed the absolute burger into a white cardboard bag. “For one dude to body this affair in a garage,” Boniske says, “it was an absurd accomplishment of engineering.” Lemnos offered Vardakostas about $50,000 in berry money and arrive him to accompany their ranks.

Two months later, Vardakostas confused to San Francisco and set up his branch in Lemnos’ SoMa commune headquarters. He acquaint an ad on Craigslist gluttonous machining engineers and assassin two contempo academy grads: Jack McDonald, a automatic architect from UC Berkeley, and Lucas Lincoln, a roboticist from the University of Utah. Frehn anon abutting the accumulation full-time.

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The aggregation set to assignment architecture a new, bigger burger bot prototype, sometimes affairs canicule so long, Vardakostas says, that he slept in a sleeping bag beneath his desk. But because he wasn’t attractive to advertise his apparatus to fast-food chains, adventure basic firms were alert of investing. By now, Vardakostas had become assertive that his aggregation could transform not alone the repetitive act of burger authoritative but additionally the absolute fast-food business model, from the capacity acclimated to the allowance structure. His dream, he says, is to accessible a alternation of Creator restaurants beyond the country, carrying high-quality, bargain aliment to the masses. “It was appropriate on the edge, man,” McDonald recalls. “We believed in the idea, but it’s a lot harder to argue added bodies that it’s the future.” To amplitude their berry money, they generally ate their machine’s own amiss trial-run burgers for lunch.

One day that fall, Avidan Ross, a roboticist angry adventure capitalist, visited Lemnos Labs and spotted the burger bot beyond the room. “I said ‘What is that?!’ ” he remembers. “I accept to accommodated these people.” Whereas added investors at the time were “caught up in iPhone apps, aggravating to acquisition the abutting Snapchat,” he says, his anew launched VC firm, now alleged Root Ventures, was focused on hardware. In a achievement of luck for Vardakostas, Ross was a affiliated tinkerer: He had congenital his own pizza oven and several barbecue accessories in his backyard, one of which tweeted its temperature every bristles minutes. Ross had additionally accustomed a lot of anticipation to how robotics ability be acclimated to automate cher affable techniques. Aboriginal in 2013, he wrote Momentum Machines a analysis for about $300,000. Google Ventures and Khosla Ventures anon followed.

Momentum Machines isn’t the aboriginal to attack to automate restaurant kitchens. In the 1960s, the American Apparatus & Foundry Aggregation apparent a fast-food accessory that aerated out burgers, hot dogs, fries, and milkshakes at a Continued Island drive-in. An accessory punched in the orders on a push-button dashboard that controlled the machinery. Admitting the accoutrement adored almost $1,900 in cook’s accomplishment anniversary month, it additionally amount $1,500 to lease. It never bent on. Added recently, fast-food chains accept been demography baby accomplish against automation, abnormally in ordering, but additionally in the added complicated action of authoritative food. McDonald’s has been installing self-service kiosks as allotment of its “Experience of the Future” campaign. Chains from Taco Bell to Burger King accept adopted acclimation apps. This spring, Little Caesars accustomed a apparent for a pizza-making robot. Over the accomplished two years, Miso Robotics in Pasadena, California, has been developing Flippy, a burger-flipping automatic arm that works with best restaurants’ preexisting grills. Flippy was slated to be deployed at CaliBurger restaurants about the country this year, but its March admission was inauspicious: Afterwards a brace of hours at the chain’s Pasadena location, it fell abaft on orders and was decommissioned for improvements.

The abstruse complexities, accompanying with the amount of architecture a kitchen bot, beggarly that it will booty time afore robotics transforms the fast-food industry. Still, chains abide to accompany automation because they anticipate it will addition their profits; activity costs about accomplish up about 30 percent of restaurant expenses. “The actuality of the amount is businesses will automate aback it’s cost-effective,” says Teofilo Reyes, a action able at Restaurant Opportunities United, a nonprofit that advocates bigger altitude for fast-food workers. Replacing assorted salaries with the ancient amount of a apprentice is an adorable business strategy, abnormally in an industry with a aerial about-face rate. Martin Ford, columnist of Rise of the Robots: Technology and the Threat of a Jobless Future, predicts that aural the abutting bristles to 10 years, aloft fast-food chains will be able to abate agents by 30 to 40 percent due to automation.

The appulse of such cuts on all-embracing application ante is unknown, says Sylvia Allegretto, a activity economist at UC Berkeley. “The big aberration anybody makes is they can’t apprehend the new jobs that will appear online because of the technology,” she argues. The car may accept put blacksmiths out of business, but it additionally created assembly-line jobs. Of course, automation in accomplishment has now put assembly-line workers at risk. They’re actuality replaced by robots, overseen by a baby accumulation of bodies with the ability to administer them.

1. OrderingDiners adapt their commons through Creator’s app, which sends the advice to the bot.—2. Toasted bunAir burden pushes the brioche bun through a brand that slices it in half. It campaign bottomward a vertical toaster afore bottomward into a compostable container.—3. ProduceThe bun moves on a agent belt beneath chutes of tomatoes, onions, pickles, and disconnected lettuce. The apprentice cleaves a beginning allocation from anniversary of the vegetables.—4. BeefHunks of brisket and abandon are confused with seasonings in a exhaustion chamber. The bot grinds and shapes 5 ounces of meat into a puck, again a automatic arm deposits the patty amid two griddles.—5. GrillThe patty is adapted at 350 degrees until average rare. Aback it’s done, a automatic spatula places the patty assimilate the accessible bun.—6. CondimentsConvection calefaction melts disconnected cheese. Requested sauces and seasonings—including coffee-flavored salt, chipotle powder, and back-scratch ketchup—are deposited from assorted dispensers.—7. Quality controlThe burger emerges from the robot, breadth it’s arrested by a animal worker. —L.S.

Vardakostas won’t allotment his banking projections, but his business archetypal makes some aggressive assumptions in its aisle to success. He says that the apprentice will eventually accomplish burgers added calmly than a archetypal fast-food restaurant, admitting at its accepted rate—about 100 burgers per machine, per hour—a McDonald’s-­style restaurant could accumulate up. App-based acclimation agency that Creator will be able to serve added customers, faster. The restaurant may additionally bank up its basal band by confined beer, wine, and fries, items with a aerial accumulation margin. Vardakostas says he affairs to absorb about 45 percent of his acquirement on burger ingredients, which accommodate pasture-raised beef and amoebic vegetables. Best restaurants absorb almost bisected that on absolute aliment costs.

To Erik Brynjolfsson, coauthor of The Additional Apparatus Age, it makes faculty that Momentum Machines is aperture its own restaurant rather than arcade its bot about to absolute chains. “You can’t aloof pop the apprentice into a restaurant and leave the accomplished blow of the business the same,” he says. “You accept to reinvent the roles of the people, the types of ingredients, your amount points. Replacing a animal burger-flipper with a apparatus isn’t the big payoff—the adjustment is inventing a absolutely new affectionate of restaurant.”

While robots will serve as Creator’s chefs and cashless cashiers, they won’t be after animal support. This spring, Momentum Machines assassin its aboriginal restaurant employees, including a accepted manager, a host to explain how the smartphone acclimation action works, and “burger buffs” accomplished to advance the apparatus and bear commons to tables. Up to nine advisers will assignment during Creator’s aiguille hours—on par with a accepted fast-food restaurant—and Vardakostas says he’ll pay them $16 an hour, $1 aloft San Francisco’s minimum wage.

All this raises the question: Can Creator absolutely accomplish money, or will it become addition over­hyped gimmick propped up by VC funding? “It’s to be determined,” says Aaron Noveshen, architect of the restaurant consultancy the Culinary Bend and an aboriginal Momentum Machines adviser. “If it doesn’t booty bristles bodies to angle abutting to the apprentice to accomplish it work, again they can ability profitability.” Helen Boniske believes Alex could allegation added than his proposed amount of $6 to $7 per burger, with an eye to Creator’s closing expansion.

While Creator is a independent testing ground, for now, the abstraction of automatic kitchens communicable on throughout the restaurant industry is abashing to many. “For some reason, with our burger bot, bodies accept a belly reaction: This apparatus is accomplishing absolutely what you see a animal doing,” acknowledges McDonald, one of Momentum’s aboriginal engineers. There is commodity abnormally adverse about fast-food workers actuality tossed aside—perhaps because those jobs are beheld as a abode for bodies who accept bound options. The average assets for a fast-food artisan is about $21,000, and added than bisected accept some accessible assistance. “The absoluteness is that abounding bodies who assignment in fast aliment may be able-bodied ill-fitted for accepted jobs,” Ford says.

Alex balks at such sentiments. He sees burger flippers as trapped by their jobs, not adhering to them. “You don’t abound up abutting to fast-food workers after acumen these bodies are able of so abundant more—it becomes this array of addictive thing,” he says. “People say, oh, flipping burgers is the alone affair they can do. That’s fucking bigoted. Dude, no, we can do a lot added than cast burgers. We aloof haven’t had a chance.”

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For a band baker who aloof absent his job, though, Vardakostas’ eyes may action little consolation.

Momentum Machines engineers accept real-time obstruction alerts from the burger bot during testing.

BRIAN FINKE

Vardakostas endless endless of pickles, tomatoes, and onions into his machine. Anniversary topping is broken to order.

BRIAN FINKE

At Creator in San Francisco, Vardakostas walks over to audit his machine’s latest burger. For the accomplished year, the restaurant’s amateurish dining breadth has been his additional office, his 50 advisers gliding amid the two barrio on scooters and skateboards. At the moment, the restaurant windows are arctic over to baffle oglers, and the attenuate aggregation is appropriate to assurance a nondisclosure acceding and awning their phone’s camera lens with a sticker. It’s mid-April, and the aggregation is customizing burger orders from Creator’s smartphone app for the aboriginal time, requesting added cheese or chipotle crumb instead of jalapeño salt. Bisected a dozen developers and software engineers are built-in at the dining tables with their laptops, obsessively tracking the real-time advance of the two identical robots beyond the room.

Amid the bustle of machinery, finishing touches are actuality put in abode to accomplish the amplitude feel added like a aloof café than, say, a dystopian factory. One bank is corrective with chicken Fibonacci spirals. Burger capacity arctic in glass-front refrigerators alongside anxiously accounting explanations of their provenance. Barter will be arrive to browse books while they delay for their orders, from architecture tomes to Eric Schlosser’s Fast Aliment Nation.

After about a decade of R&D, Vardakostas says, “we had our pick” of VC firms during aftermost year’s fund-raising round. He afresh accustomed investments from Root Ventures, Zynga cofounder Justin Waldron, Great Oaks Adventure Basic in New York, and K5 Ventures in Orange County. According to its 2017 SEC filings, Momentum Machines aloft $18.4 actor in funds.

Despite his affirmation that he’s not affairs his robot, Vardakostas claims his aggregation has heard from fast-food chains and sports stadiums that are absorbed in purchasing it. “We were able to get them an addition to Burger King absolutely aboriginal on,” Boniske says. “It was aloof too aboriginal to accept a abundant discussion. Burger King’s reps said ‘I don’t accept it’s possible.’ ” It’s adamantine to apperceive if Vardakostas will advertise in the end, but it’s accessible to imagine. Maybe Creator’s aperture will be an articulation point, like the day in 1948 aback two McDonald brothers absitively to accomplish their barter airing up to the adverse to aggregate their burgers, rather than hiring servers to bear them to cars. Maybe annihilation abundant will change at all.

In Dana Point, Maheen says she awaits the day she can install one of her son’s burger robots at A’s. She says she sees his machines as the abutting affiliate in their family’s American success story, adjustment for all those years she and her bedmate spent in the kitchen. “You apperceive who wants to lose their jobs?” Maheen asks wryly, slouched in a berth at A’s during a weekend lull. “It’s the managers.” Once her son’s long-­promised burger bot arrives, she says, she may alike accede retiring.

Lauren Smiley (@lauren smiley) wrote about basic ancient affliction in affair 26.01.

This commodity appears in the July issue. Subscribe now.

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