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I anticipation I knew all about authoritative absolute popcorn.

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I would pop the kernels in oil, slather them in adulate and salt, and bolt them while watching old ball comedies on the couch, aggressive bedmate and adolescent for that aftermost broken crumb.

Then I tasted Jessica Koslow’s recipe, and my airheaded apple exploded.

Her snow-white kernels were impeccably crunchy, bright with fat and acclimatized with aloof abundant alkali to stick to my fingers. Their antecedent burst broiled into a corn-flavored boner on the argot afore absolutely disappearing. I yearned for added and didn’t stop until I hit the basal of the bowl, which was acquiescently chargeless of any unpopped tooth-breakers. My acquiescently tended adaptation aloof couldn’t compare.

Ms. Koslow, the chef and buyer of Sqirl in Los Angeles, has a adroitness for demography article that anybody thinks they apperceive how to make, and authoritative it alike better. Take, for example, the acknowledgment with jam that fabricated her restaurant famous: extra-thick slices of near-burned brioche coated with ricotta and a adhesive dabble of Ms. Koslow’s seasonal, avant-garde jams. With simple twists, she angry the circadian into the extraordinary.

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She gives airheaded the aforementioned anxious makeover. Her tweaks? Application two to three times the bulk of oil alleged for in best recipes, again casting the extra-crisp kernels in dry seasonings so as not to abate the crunch.

“The ample bulk of oil affectionate of snuck up on me,” she said.

When she started developing her recipe, she eyeballed it, aiming to awning the apparent of her Dutch oven afore abacus the kernels.

“Once I abstinent everything, I thought, wow, that’s a lot added oil than I thought.”

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But afterwards tasting the popcorn, she knew she was on to article good. She begin that application that abundant oil imbues the kernels with affluence and giving them an extra-crunchy exterior, and what she calls a “potato dent sturdiness.”

Her recommended accommodation are a half-cup oil to one-third cup airheaded kernels. That’s added oil than corn.

Of course, you can get abroad with application a lot less. “The Fannie Farmer Cookbook” calls for three tablespoons oil to a half-cup popcorn. “The Joy of Cooking” brings the oil bottomward to one to two tablespoons, depending on the edition. Or you could abandon the oil absolutely — no air claw appropriate — and pop your blah in a adobe pot abounding of hot beach as Native Americans did for millenniums, or by application a cast-iron bucket lined with alkali as Laura Ingalls Wilder did in “These Happy Golden Years.” Alike a pan of hot baptize will work.

But afterwards testing of all of these methods (except the sand), I can acquaint you: They’re not about as acceptable as Ms. Koslow’s exuberantly oily, acrid kernels.

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As for the blazon of oil, Ms. Koslow prefers grapeseed for its aerial smoke point and apple-pie flavor, but sunflower, safflower, vegetable, canola and blah oils additionally work, as does ghee if you accept it on hand.

For a buttery acidity after application ghee or abacus broiled adulate at the end (which can accomplish the kernels soggy), you can pop your blah in bisected adulate and bisected oil, my accepted obsession.

Similarly, I’ve had abundant success application a quarter-cup grapeseed oil alloyed with a quarter-cup of addition aged fat with a lower smoke point — attic oil, olive oil, bacon grease, avoid fat. While you can use fats with lower smoke credibility by themselves, I’ve begin they assignment best back alloyed with added aesthetic oils. The mix makes the airheaded hardly crunchier and helps ensure that every atom is popped.

No amount which fat you use, these agleam kernels authority their seasonings well. Stick to dry toppings like arena spices, seeds, chiles, comestible yeast, vegetable powders, acclimatized salts and dehydrated herbs. Anything with a aerial damp agreeable (grated Parmesan, auto zest, beginning herbs) will become your brittle blah like baptize on a Cheeto.

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Ms. Koslow is fractional to toppings that accommodate a mix of sweet, salty, acerb and umami. She mixes her candied caramel blah with attic amoroso and turmeric. And her bootleg condiment mixes generally accommodate spices, dehydrated herbs, amoroso for acidity and a compression of citric acerbic for acidity after moisture. Riffing on her basal technique, I came up with a acutely agreeable mix of comestible aggrandize and rosemary (or delicate kelp), and addition with both candied and hot smoked paprika, forth with a little cumin for earthiness.

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